Olympics Jump-Off

Harmonious 3-Wheel Motion Opening Ceremony Viewing
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So the Beijing Olympics have finally arrived! On Friday, 8-8-08, at 8:08pm*, the much anticipated opening ceremonies kicked off. The world was watching.

[*8, as you might have guessed, is a very auspicious number in Chinese culture. "And if you don't know, now you know..."]

The city was definitely abuzz. And hot. And humid. So hot and so humid. Beijing, while hot as b*llz during the summer days, usually cools off at night. Or at least there is a breeze. The past few nights, however, coated the city with heavy, hazy, and stagnant air.

I had made somewhat last-minute plans to meet with a friend who was about to leave China, and whose return depends on a new visa. As I rode my bike through the Beijing streets on the way to the cafe/bar street of Nanluoguxiang, I wondered where most of the locals would be watching the opening ceremony.

Would it be like the pictures of Seoul during the 2002 World Cup (see below)?




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Not quite.

Apparently, people were encouraged to watch the opening ceremonies at home with their families. No need to gather in large crowds and produce opportunities for troublemakers and cause further headaches for the powers-that-be, who have been working towards for this exact moment for the past 7+ years.

As I rode my bike through the hutongs, I did notice some small gatherings outside around non-flat screen TV's.




(7:28pm, 8-8-08)
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After watching the first part of the ceremony, I must say I was quite impressed, especially given the hype and high expectations. On the other hand, the energy of the city was nothing like it was during Chinese New Year's.

I thought back to what my Chinese teacher had said a few days earlier, after I had asked if she was getting excited for the Olympics. She explained that she is definitely proud of China's progress and wants to represent China well, but I sensed her enthusiasm for the Olympics, per se, seemed a bit more muted.

She commented that the Olympics doesn't really have much to do with the common folk, the laobaixing. The Olympics are more for governments, and such government matters have nothing to do with her.

This line of thought seems to reflect a common sentiment here among the common folk. And I think this is what many in the West do not understand. Your average Chinese person is pretty apolitical and just wants to make some money--do you!--and just go on l.i.v.i.n. The government for the most part stays out of the way, as long as people don't cause trouble by gathering in large crowds and protesting this or that and mentioning you-know-who.

Regarding the Olympics, then, many Chinese people believe that the Games are most importantly a showcase to put on the greatest face/facade for the rest of the world. Like the Truman Show? Not necessarily an athletic showcase for Chinese people to see.

For example, tickets to the Opening Ceremony, I heard, were going for 20,000 Euros last Thursday. "EUROS, that's right plurrrooo." (Of course, these figures are totally unsubstantiated.) To put things in perspective, your average "middle-class" college-educated local Chinese might need to save 6 years worth of salary for a ticket at that price. Even tickets to the sporting events procured through the lottery system months ago are too expensive for many (most) locals.

During the middle part of the ceremony where the athlete contingents from all the countries marched out (yawn), I took another ride through the city to meet with another friend, who was watching the ceremony at his neighbor's abode.



At every restaurant and shop, I noticed almost everybody was watching a TV. Almost.



Throughout the hutongs I saw several older Chinese (see above), who were wearing these white Olympic polo shirts with a red arm band. The uniform signaled they were Olympic volunteers on citizen patrol to detect any troublemakers.

I found it somewhat surprising that they didn't want to watch the long-awaited ceremony on TV too. But then I realized that it wasn't necessarily that they didn't want to, but maybe that this was their display of their patriotism (which is literally, "love country" in Chinese). This was their sacrifice for this great moment for Modern China. Keeping an eye out for troublemakers and not watching TV, I guess, is how they "rep their hood."

Meanwhile, as the simple man that I is, I was curious what sorts of festivities were in store after the opening ceremony.

First impression: Beijing was like NY right after 9-11. There were police and uniformed guards EVERYWHERE. The powers-that-be were serious yo. No troublemaking during the Olympics and ruining this glorious moment! (Ironically and tragically about 12 hours later a disgruntled guy lost it and well...you've probably read the rest).

Anyway, we were determined to get our festivity on. Our first stop was at this club where the homie, Neil Armstrong, was DJing for a couple Adidas parties. Fresh off a world tour as Jay-Z's DJ, Neil had come to Beijing to show his love of China (flags).



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Afterwards we went to the YEN party.



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Afterwards...hey why is it light out?



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The next night, I found myself at the Nike party. Lasers!





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Then it was off to the (oh-so-cleverly-named) club, Bling.